With its laid-back vibe and menu made for sharing, Nikos Umhlanga is a delicious excuse to gather friends and family around the table.
There’s something about a table full of dishes made for sharing that makes a meal feel like an occasion. Add a relaxed atmosphere, Greek-inspired decor and a menu that encourages you to try a bit of everything, and you have all the ingredients for a lovely summer lunch. That was the mood at Nikos Umhlanga, where we settled in for a family-style feast with a distinctly Mediterranean feel.
We started with the brinjal stack, fried until golden and topped with crumbled feta, and a Village Greek salad that brought together juicy tomato, cucumber, red onion, olives and more feta. Fresh, colourful and uncomplicated, it was a good introduction to the meal. The spinach and feta phyllo pies were another easy crowd-pleaser, with crisp, flaky pastry giving way to a savoury filling.
But if there was one dish that had us rethinking everything we thought we knew about baked feta, it was the Santorini version. Wrapped in phyllo and drizzled with honey, sesame seeds and rosemary, with grapes adding a little extra sweetness, it delivered that wonderful combination of salty, sweet and crunchy.
The soutzoukakia, or beef meatballs in Napoletana sauce, came with pita bread and brought a comforting, homestyle note to the table. Then came the chops. The skinny pork chops, coal-grilled and served with zucchini fries, had an appealing smoky flavour, while the skinny lamb chops paired beautifully with roast potatoes.
Naturally, no Greek-inspired spread would be complete without a few dips. We worked our way through tzatziki, with its cooling combination of yoghurt, garlic and cucumber; hummus and htipiti, a punchy blend of red pepper, chilli and feta. Served with grissini bread, they made for excellent table grazing while the rest of the food arrived.
By this point, we were beginning to wonder whether dessert was a sensible idea. Happily, the answer was yes. The chocolate tahina and halva brownie combined dark chocolate, tahina marbling and chunks of halva, served with ice cream for a rich, indulgent finish. For something more traditional, the galaktoboureko was served warm, with crisp layers of phyllo wrapped around a custard filling and finished with syrup. Sweet, comforting and wonderfully sticky, it was a fitting end to the meal.
What makes Nikos Umhlanga an appealing choice is the easy-going feel of the place. The menu lends itself to long lunches, family get-togethers and warm evenings when nobody is in a hurry to leave. With plenty of dishes to pass around and flavours ranging from fresh and zesty to rich and indulgent, it’s a spot that makes sharing the meal almost as enjoyable as eating it.
Our advice? Arrive hungry, order generously and leave room for dessert.
Details: 50 Lighthouse Rd, Umhlanga Rocks; 031 942 6577
Photos: Coastal Media
