Crossing the Makhonjwa Mountains in 1902, JC Smuts was so taken aback by the sheer beauty of the area that he referred to it as “one of the virgin corners of the continent, garnished with possibly the most magnificent scenery in all of Africa” in his memoirs.
The gateway to the Kingdom of eSwatini, Mozambique and the Kruger Lowveld, the region
JC spoke about, is now known as the Genesis Route, because it remembers a world lost in time, giving us a glimpse into the (very) distant past, while also offering travellers a stunning alternative to the N4.
The 220km route, which twists and winds in a figure of eight, connects the farming community of Low’s Creek, the picturesque town of Badplaas, and the historically rich
and quirky Barberton, showcasing the area’s ancient inhabitants in rock. But not just any rock – these particular formations take you back to a time when life was only just beginning. The Makhonjwa Mountains, amongst the oldest dolomite caves in the world, depict the fossilised remains of the first life forms trapped inside their 3.5-billion-year-old structure.
Apart from the historical implications of this, the Genesis Route has recently received
provisional World Heritage Site status, making it the 11th place in South Africa to do so. It is also steeped in gold rush history, complete with bawdy barmaids, cut-throat antics, adversity and sheer desperation, born from the deep-seated desire to find gold, no matter what. The stunning vistas and diverse environments, ranging from rocky mountain ravines to magnificent indigenous forests and vast savannah grasslands, will take your breath away.
Getting there
This hidden treasure trove is one of Mpumalanga’s best-kept secrets, and is the ideal place for a weekend or family getaway. There are two ways of getting there, both packed with scenic and historical wonders. The first option is to take the N4 out of Mbombela and in the direction of Malalane. You will pass the Nkomazi Silo in Kaapmuiden and just before the toll gate see the R38 signpost for the Genesis Route.
If you choose to take the R40, you will end up in Barberton, the Genesis Route’s central point. Driving down into the basin is a breathtaking affair of one of the most spectacular passes in South Africa, a winding, twisty road with views as far as forever. There is another option not actually part of this route, but stunning nonetheless, leading you through spectacular expanses of wild bushveld and cultivated fields, and that is the R38 between Kaapmuiden and Low’s Creek.
What to find along the way
Around 4km after the N4 turn-off on the left, you’ll find the Boondocks Mountain Labyrinth.
Regarded as one of South Africa’s top spiritual travel destinations, the labyrinth is a haven of beautiful scenery, birding trails and nature hikes, offering stunning 360-degree panoramic views of pristine bush from a high-up viewpoint of a granite outcrop.
Nukain Mabuza Stone Garden is one of the 44 famous environmental works worldwide to be created by outsider artists, and one of only two in SA (the other is the famous Owl House of Helen Martins in Nieu Bethesda in the Karoo). Sadly, the site is in need of a little TLC, but Nukain’s beautifully designed artwork is still visible on the rock, and well worth a visit. You will find the stone garden about 5km past the Boondocks sign, on the left-hand side.
Travelling the R38 from Low’s Creek to Barberton will take you past a ghost town, Eureka City. Situated high up above the mines in the Makhonjwa Mountains, a demanding 4×4 track descends down through the “Gates of Paradise” into the “Gates of Hell”, making this an adventure for all but the faint of heart.
Another notable feature of the area is the Mountainlands Nature Reserve. Apart from the
extraordinary scenery, the reserve harbours one of the wonders of the mining world, Bray’s Golden Quarry. The deposits of gold were so prolific here in days of yore, that the rocks were said to be cemented in it.
Barberton is quaint and pretty, jam-packed full of historical lore and treasures. Grab a map from the Tourism Info Office and enjoy the town’s Heritage Walk, exploring the vestiges
of the past, lost dreams of riches and wealth found in the brooding hills, all steeped in the history and legend that surrounds gold and gold mining in the area. You could also partake in a bit of gold panning, or celebrate the area’s rich cultural heritage by taking a township tour.
The 2km Rimer’s Creek Birding Trail is a circular route that starts off at the back of Fernlea Museum House and is an absolute must for bird lovers. The route isn’t long, but don’t be surprised if you end up spending hours searching for elusive species you know are there! A
few examples that people come from far and wide to see are the Knysna turaco, the gorgeous bush-shrike and the Narina trogon.
A definite bucket list item is the geotrail. The striking landscapes, iconic history and beautiful wildlife offer something spectacular for everyone, from geologists to nature lovers. The Barberton Greenstone Belt with its banded iron formation extending towards eSwatini is the perfect place to celebrate Mother Nature’s treasure, the three-billion-year-old massive rocks of ancient dolomitic limestone being the oldest in the world. Open a door into the mists of time and see what the world looked like before the dinosaurs, when the first forms of life were starting to appear. The geotrail takes approximately five hours to do, either via self-drive or guided tour.
The well-known two-day Queen Rose Hiking Trail is located inside the Nelshoogte Nature Reserve, and is a spectacular 26km hike along the Queen’s River, over mountain passes and through indigenous woodland. This is more than a hike, it’s an adventure, and you’ll find river crossings (more than 20 of them), splash pools and suspension bridges. The scenery is awe-inspiring, giving rise to a well-deserved reputation as one of the most beautiful drives in the entire country.
