Coastal forest, grasslands and pristine beaches…Thonga Trails has it all. We experienced the 45 kilometre walk for ourselves, and were blown away by the natural beauty of this unique route.
To begin the journey, we met at Sodwana Bay and hopped onto a shuttle that took us slowly but surely 100km north, landing us in Bhanga Nek, just a few kilometres shy of the Mozambican border. A short walk brought us to our hidden camp, ‘Little Paradise’, nestled in a clearing overlooking Lake Kuhlange, the largest of the Kosi lakes. Here, we were met with canapés and bubbly served by Damien, a French chef with the incredible skill of creating culinary masterpieces even in the most remote settings.
After a delicious dinner, we headed out for an evening turtle walk, where we were lucky enough to spot a nesting loggerhead – a truly magical sight and a wonderful start to the adventure.
EXPLORING THE LAKES
The next morning, we hit the trail with our guide Agrippa, heading along the lake’s edge, weaving through indigenous forest, and eventually making our way upwards to take in panoramic views of the Kosi lakes below. Although the walking was slow – with plenty of time to learn about flora and fauna along the way – we’d certainly worked up an appetite by the time we reached a local homestead and the location of our lunch break. Here, we were welcomed with open arms, enjoyed fresh bread, salad and braaied meat, and rested under the trees.
Our descent down the hill led us to the lake, where we learnt about traditional fish traps and had the chance to snorkel among the mangroves. There, we hopped onto a boat and enjoyed a beautiful cruise back to camp – spotting hippos and a variety of birdlife along the way. Back at ‘Little Paradise’, Damien outdid himself by serving up cold-smoked tuna on baguette with lime, coriander, wasabi and anchovies mayonnaise, followed by a dinner of homemade pasta with fresh langoustines sourced from nearby Mozambique.
THE TREK TO BLACK ROCK
The next day, we set off early, starting in coastal forest before ascending a steep dune. The effort was well worth it though, as views from the top stretched out over a vast, untouched beach. And then, the beach was all ours. We moved down the pristine coastline, pausing at various spots along the way – Rabbit Rock, Castle Rock and Dog Point until finally, we reached Black Rock – a beautiful bay where we got to rest our feet and enjoy a scrumptious lunch. After lunch and a quick scout for the rare Bouton’s snake-eyed skink, a small, elusive lizard, we jumped on the vehicles and headed to our accommodation for the night – this time, rustic grass huts at Hlabasimhlope Monument and Heritage site. An outdoor shower, followed by a delicious Zulu meal and stories around the fire, were just what we needed before a good night’s rest.
DISCOVERING LAKE SIBAYA
After breakfast, we set out into Manzengwenya’s coastal bush, spotting birds, butterflies and even a vine snake along the way. After a few more kilometres of beach walking, we reached Island Rock and were once again met with a feast – fresh bread, cheese and pickles. Having completed our 45-kilometre walk, we celebrated with a ride to the most beautiful hidden gem – Lake Sibaya. Here, we enjoyed drinks on the water’s edge, marvelling at its sheer size and beauty and reflecting on the diversity of the landscape we’d covered in just a few days. With tired feet and happy hearts, we headed back to Sodwana Bay for our last night.
A FINAL TREAT
Sodwana Bay is known for its marine life, and an optional ocean safari was the ideal opportunity to see the coastline we had spent the past few days exploring from a different angle. Dolphins showed off their synchronised swimming, and snorkelling at Two Mile Reef was the perfect end to the trip.
Back on land, we bid farewell to our new friends, grateful for every view, laugh, and wildlife encounter we’d had along Thonga’s stunning coastline.
EMPOWERING COMMUNITIES
Thonga Trails isn’t just about the stunning scenery and unforgettable experiences; it’s also a journey that uplifts the local community. The initiative has created opportunities for re-employment post-lockdown, particularly for those previously in tourism roles affected by the pandemic. By partnering with rural communities along this unique coastline, Thonga Trails ensures that the benefits of eco-tourism flow directly back to the people who call this area home. Through a locally sourced micro-economy, every aspect of the trail – from meals to activities – is rooted in conservation and community upliftment.
GOOD TO KNOW
- Trails start at R13 500 per person and include all meals, drinks, guides, turtle walks and ocean safari.
- Although the trail is fairly easy and the pace is slow, a basic level of fitness is required.
- Thonga Trails is a slack-packing route so you’ll just need to carry a light day pack.
Details: www.thongatrails.com; 0760 308 065; 074 413 5598; thongatrails@gmail.com;
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