Describing herself as “a big girl who’s forever on a diet,” chef Nandile Mtshaha is particularly interested in nutrition, believes traditional African food is underrated, and that tastebuds should travel the world during any eating experience.
Back in 2001, on Valentine’s Day, Nandile’s mom was hospitalised, and the then nine-year-old and her older sister were left to make dinner for their father. It was their first attempt at cooking. And it was a disaster!
But it was also the stepping stone that ultimately catapulted her into vibrant kitchens across the world.
“The salad I made for my dad resembled what we call uShatini (sambals) but it had green peppers and fish spice added to it and didn’t taste very nice. Yet, my dad would ask me to make that salad almost every week. We all knew it wasn’t great but because of that salad, and because my dad asked for it regularly, my love for cooking and preparing dishes grew.”
Nandile began to learn how to balance textures and the importance of having side dishes that didn’t take the shine off main courses. At 17, she started her own small business selling homemade muffins and, even though it broke school rules, the support she got from her peers and teachers boosted her confidence in the kitchen.
“My home economics teacher spoke to me about enrolling at a culinary school, and thank goodness she did, as I had no idea what I wanted to do after leaving school. Since then, I have not looked back and today I am delighted to be able to share my knowledge with young aspiring chefs.”
After graduating from culinary school, Nandile started working as a junior sous chef for a catering company. But itchy feet, and the fact that several of her friends had started travelling, and working abroad, encouraged her to seek overseas opportunities.
“I went for six interviews and was rejected at each one. Just when I was starting to lose hope, I got an interview for a job working at Gasparilla Inn & Club, a resort hotel on Gasparilla Island on the Gulf of Mexico.”
After two seasons, Nandile returned home to complete her studies and was offered a pastry chef de partie position at Grootbos Nature Reserve where she worked for a year, followed by roles as a sous chef at the Antiques Café in Durban and chef de partie at Sun International’s Time Square in Pretoria. But long industry hours and a yearning to spend more time with her ageing parents led her back to Durban, where she now relishes in her role as chef lecturer at Capsicum Culinary Studio.
“I have several intolerances and allergies, so these interests have come about as a result of my own personal experiences. I’m always struggling to find something good and healthy that I can safely eat whenever I go out, and I am not alone in this struggle.”
Nandile says food needs to remind you of a time and a place where you’ve made memories with people you hold close to your heart. “I live for good memories and food needs to tell a story that can be an integral part of those fond recollections.”
A quickfire with Nandile
Your favourite dessert …Wine! It’s made from fruit and the right amount of sweetness, right? So why not put it under the dessert category?
Your favourite kitchen tool? A whisk because it helps me firm up my big arms.
Is there anything you don’t eat? A lot. Due to my intolerances and allergies I don’t eat red meat, pineapples, pawpaw, watermelon and dairy products.
Do you have a foodie icon? My former Executive Sous Chef Dave Blackburn from Gasparilla Inn & Club. He taught me never to doubt myself and how to master my craft. He constantly reminded me why I travelled across the world to pursue my dream. He also taught me to find my own strength and use it to better myself and set myself apart from the rest.
Is there any dish you still want to master? I still want to make a Chicken Biryani as good as my mother’s been making since I was knee-high.
Your favourite three ingredients? Onions, garlic and black pepper.
Your go-to cookbook? My own book of recipes that I have collected throughout my travels.
Rooibos-infused Spicy Chicken Feet
Ingredients: 3kg chicken feet, cleaned; 1 tablespoon olive oil; 4 onions, finely chopped; 1 green pepper, finely chopped; 3 cloves of garlic, minced; 1 tablespoon of Kashmiri paste; 1 sachet of tomato paste; 1 tablespoon of garlic powder; 1 tablespoon of onion powder; 1 teaspoon of garum masala; 1 teaspoon of chilli powder; 1 tablespoon of wet masala curry powder; 4 cups rooibos tea; salt and pepper to taste; fresh coriander, chopped (for garnish)
Method: Pour the olive oil into a large saucepan over medium heat and sauté the onions until translucent. Add the garlic and peppers and stir until soft. Add all the spices and pastes and cook for 1 to 2 minutes stirring to combine. Add the chicken feet and stir. Once the chicken feet have browned, add the rooibos tea, reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid has reduced slightly and the chicken feet are cooked. Taste and season accordingly. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with uJeqe (steamed bread) or isigwaqhane (maize meal and red beans).
Roasted Cauliflower & Chickpea Salad
Ingredients: 3 tbsp olive oil; ½ tsp ground cinnamon; 2 tsp cumin seeds; 1 small head cauliflower, divided into small florets; 400g tin chickpeas; 1 to 2 tbsp harissa, to taste; 4 small ripe vine tomatoes, quartered; ½ tsp sea salt; 3 to 4 tbsp pomegranate seeds; ½ cup pistachio nuts, chopped; large bunch flatleaf parsley
Method: Preheat the oven to 200°C. Pour the oil into a large bowl, add the cinnamon and cumin seeds and stir. Tip in the cauliflower and toss to coat. Pour into a baking tray and place in the oven for 15 minutes. Add the chickpeas to the same bowl and add the harissa. Toss to coat. Add the tomatoes and mix. Remove the cauliflower and tip in the chickpeas and tomatoes. Toss to combine and return to the oven for 15 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender. Remove from the oven and sprinkle over the salt. Add the parsley, pomegranate seeds and the pistachio nuts and toss to combine. Serve warm.
Jamaican Escovitch Fish
Ingredients: 1 whole white fish, cleaned and scaled; 1 lemon; ½ cup vegetable oil; 1 bay leaf; 1 tsp minced garlic; ½ tsp ginger; 1 white medium onion, thinly sliced; 1 medium carrot, julienned; ½ red pepper thinly sliced; ½ yellow pepper thinly sliced; 2 sprigs thyme; ½ tsp cayenne pepper; ½ tsp Jamaican all spice; 1 tbsp sugar; 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce; ¾ cup red wine vinegar; Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method: Rinse fish, then rub with lemon and season with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat and add the fish, cooking each side for about 5 to 7 minutes or until cooked through and crispy on both sides. Remove fish and set aside. Drain oil from skillet retaining about 2 to 3 tbsp. Add the bay leaf, garlic and ginger and stir-fry for about a minute making sure the garlic does not burn. Add the onion, peppers, carrots, thyme, cayenne pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and Jamaican spice and continue stirring for about 2 to 3 minutes. Add vinegar, mix and adjust salt and pepper according to taste. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Discard bay leave, thyme sprig and spoon over the fish.
Salmon Nicoise Salad
Ingredients:
For The Dressing: ¼ cup olive oil; 1 tbsp Dijon mustard; 3 tbsp of lemon juice freshly squeezed; 1 tsp kosher salt; ½ tsp ground black pepper
For the Nicoise Salad: 450g baby potatoes, washed; 4 large eggs; 200g green beans, ends removed and cut in half; 1 cucumber, peeled and cut into cubes; ½ cup cherry tomatoes, halved; ½ cup Kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped; 1 avocado, sliced (optional); 1 tbsp capers (optional); ¼ cup chopped parsley
For the Salmon: 2 salmon fillets; 1 tbsp olive oil; 1 tsp kosher salt; ½ tsp ground black pepper; 1 lemon, sliced
Method: For the dressing: Place all ingredients in a jar, put the lid on, and give it a good shake to mix well. Set aside. Place the potatoes in a medium-sized pot and add just enough water to cover them. Stir in 1 tbsp salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to medium-low and cook until potatoes are cooked (20-25 minutes). Remove potatoes with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl. Place the green beans in the hot potato water and cook for 2 minutes, making sure they are still crunchy. Drain and set aside.
While the potatoes are cooking, bring water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat and add the eggs. Cook for 7 minutes. Meanwhile fill a bowl with cold water and ice. After 7 minutes are completed remove eggs from the pot and place them into the ice bath to stop cooking. When they are cool enough to handle, peel and set aside.
To roast the salmon: Preheat the oven to 150°C. Line a tray with baking paper, add two thickish slices of lemon and set aside. Pat-dry the salmon fillets with paper towel, brush lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper on each side and place skin side down on top of the lemon slices. Bake for 13-15 minutes.
To assemble: Drizzle half of the dressing over the potatoes while they are still hot to absorb it. Add green beans, cucumber, tomatoes, olives, sliced avocados, and capers into the bowl. Using two forks, gently break apart the cooked salmon into bite-sized pieces and place on top of the salad. Slice the eggs and add them to the bowl. Drizzle the salad with the rest of the salad dressing. Garnish with parsley and serve.
